Shanghai is a big place, and if you are travelling by yourself it can, quite frankly, become a little daunting. All alone there recently, I felt drawn to the groovy and very intimate Tianzifang precinct. This is a gorgeous collection of little connected alleyways filled with groovy shops and any number of intimate (in the extreme!) restaurants, bars and cafes. Tianzifang is, as my local friend says, “old-style Shanghai,” and I feel completely at home there.
There is a fabulous shop in one of the alleys selling Tibetan beads, jewellery and religious implements, all at outlandish prices, but presided over by the most magnetic (and gorgeous) shopkeeper, whose handsome, muscular form beams out at you from photographs placed throughout the shop of him and in the embrace of various Tibetan Buddhist masters. In Tianzifang there is also an outlet for Demeter perfumes, surely the kookiest parfumier in the world, with its fragrances recreating almost to perfection such distinctive smells as ‘Snow’, ‘Rain’ and – my favourite – ‘Earthworm’.
I discovered the terrifically homey Cafe Dan because I was aching for something a little sweet, and they had a large picture of a slice of cheesecake displayed on their menu board. It was as though they knew I was coming. When I opened the door I was confronted with an empty vestibule and a steep and incredibly narrow stairway. Making my way up (were they even open? I wondered) I was greeted at the top by some young and beautiful staff, and I squeezed my way to one of the tiny tables. Like all the restaurants in Tianzifang, Cafe Dan is a TINY place which probably seats no more than 20 people.
Cheesecake |
Green tea latte |
For those interested in ethical eating, Cafe Dan was the only place in Shanghai I saw advertising organic, natural ingredients, and even their menu was littered with ecological messages.
Most of the eateries in Tianzifang can get very crowded at lunchtime, so try to visit slightly off-time – 11, maybe, or 2.30pm. That way you’ll be sure to get a seat.
Cafe Dan
Tianzifang,
Lane 248 Taikang Lu, Shanghai
田子坊泰康路248弄,
近思南路
PHONE: 6466 1042
HOURS: Daily, 10:30am-10pm
Who would have thought that you'd find that perfect NY-style cheesecake in Shanghai? :)
ReplyDeleteIt looks so much fun, I so want to go.. apparently Nanjing is really cute too.
ReplyDeleteWe're thinking about a trip to China next year and Shanghai is one of the stops. It's great to see a little sneakpeak - the area of alleyways sounds right up my...alley!
ReplyDeleteLucky you MissPiggy... let me know how you go with the alleyways of Tianzifang
ReplyDelete@misspiggy definitely worth visiting..... it is clear the government wants to develop shanghai into the new york of china............ the skyscraper development....... and skyline development....... is amazing there
ReplyDeletei think one day people will speak of shanghai the same way they speak of tokyo today...... definitely a place worth visiting.